All three of these facials exfoliate. That’s why they get confused, and why people often book the one they’ve heard of rather than the one their skin needs. They work in different ways and do different jobs. Here’s the plain version, a side-by-side table, then how to choose.
The short answer: dermaplaning suits dull skin and peach fuzz, especially before an event or if your make-up catches on texture. A HydroFacial suits congested pores and dehydrated, tired-looking skin. Microdermabrasion suits rough texture and uneven tone, and works best as a course. If you can’t tell which describes you, that’s what a free skin analysis is for.
How each one works
Dermaplaning uses a sterile surgical blade held at a shallow angle. It removes the top layer of dead skin cells and the fine “peach fuzz” (vellus) hair in one go. No heat, no light and no needles. A session usually takes 30 to 45 minutes. And no, the hair doesn’t grow back thicker or darker. We explain why here.
HydroFacial O2 works with fluid rather than an abrasive surface. It exfoliates with a gentle mix of glycolic and salicylic acids, uses suction to clear blocked pores without squeezing, then infuses hydrating serums, finishing with an oxygen step. It’s the longest of the three, at around 75 minutes, and the only one with extraction and serums built in.
Microdermabrasion exfoliates mechanically, with a diamond tip or fine crystals, at a depth set for your skin. It works on the outer layer only. That keeps it gentle with little downtime, and it also means it isn’t the answer for deep lines or deep scars.
Microdermabrasion vs HydroFacial vs dermaplaning: side by side
| Dermaplaning | HydroFacial O2 | Microdermabrasion | |
|---|---|---|---|
| How it exfoliates | Sterile blade | Fluid, gentle acids and suction | Diamond tip or crystals |
| Best for | Dullness, peach fuzz, make-up sitting better | Congested pores, dehydration, dullness | Rough texture, uneven tone |
| Removes peach fuzz | Yes | No | No |
| Clears blocked pores | No | Yes, by suction | No |
| Serums built in | No, but it preps skin well for them | Yes | No |
| Session length | 30 to 45 minutes | About 75 minutes | About 45 minutes |
| Downtime | Minimal | Usually none | Little; mild pinkness can last a few hours |
| How often | Every 4 to 6 weeks | Monthly for maintenance, or a course | A course, every 2 to 4 weeks |
How to choose
Choose dermaplaning if…
your skin looks flat, make-up catches on texture or peach fuzz, and you want something quick before an event. It’s also an easy first facial if you’ve never had one.
Choose a HydroFacial if…
your main complaint is congestion: blackheads, clogged pores, or skin that feels tight and dehydrated while still breaking out in places. The extraction and serum steps are what set it apart. If you’ve tried manual extractions and hated them, this is the gentler route.
Choose microdermabrasion if…
rough texture and uneven tone are the issue and you’re happy to commit to a short course. Many people notice smoother skin after one session. For texture, we usually recommend a course of three or six sessions, spaced 2 to 4 weeks apart.
Can you combine them?
Yes, in a plan rather than all at once. Microdermabrasion and dermaplaning are sometimes paired for event prep, and some people use one between courses of another treatment. Your practitioner will set the order and spacing so your skin isn’t over-exfoliated.
Who shouldn’t have them (for now)
None of the three is the right choice over active inflamed acne, rosacea, eczema or psoriasis in the treatment area, sunburn or broken skin. A cold sore flare means waiting. If you’re taking, or have recently taken, isotretinoin (Roaccutane), tell us, because it rules out exfoliating treatments for a period. We check all of this at your consultation, and we’ll say plainly if something else would suit you better.
Aftercare
Freshly exfoliated skin is more sensitive to the sun, so daily SPF afterwards is essential with all three. We’ll give you aftercare advice for your treatment and your skin before you leave.
Common questions
Which is best for sensitive skin?
Usually the HydroFacial, because it uses fluid and suction rather than an abrasive surface or a blade, and the serums are chosen for your skin on the day. Very reactive skin still needs assessing first.
Which is best before a wedding or event?
Dermaplaning and the HydroFacial are both popular before events. Book a few days ahead rather than the day before, so your skin has time to settle.
Is a HydroFacial the same as hydrodermabrasion?
Not quite. Hydrodermabrasion is the general term for exfoliating with water. A HydroFacial adds pore extraction and a serum infusion in the same treatment.
Which helps acne scars?
None of these three treats deep acne scars, because they work on the surface. For scarring, look at microneedling or RF microneedling instead.
Still not sure?
That’s normal, and it’s why the first step at myskiin is free. A free skin analysis at our Walsall town centre clinic shows what’s going on with your skin, and we’ll tell you which of these, if any, fits. You don’t have to book anything on the day.
19 Lichfield Street, Walsall, WS1 1UG · Open every day, 10am to 7pm · 01922 929850